A Guide to Electrolysis

By C Dawson

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Transgender ResourcesEverything You Need to Know About Hair Removal, By C Dawson

Threading

There is one other, and in this country very unusual, method of temporary hair removal. It's called "threading" and it is used quite commonly in Middle and Far Eastern countries. It is impossible to describe, but involves a piece of thread with a loop in it, one end of which is put in the mouth.

The thread is then drawn in and out of the hairs, which are then removed - "very like a mass plucking," says Julie. "It's wonderful to see it done."

Electrolysis

The only available method of permanent hair removal - epilation - is electrolysis. This, as you would imagine, involves the use of electricity and, to be fully effective, it must not only remove the hair from the follicle but must also disrupt the papilla in some way, so that it is no longer capable of producing regrowth hairs. At the same time, it must not cause lasting damage to the follicle itself, and especially to the sebaceous gland. There are several techniques which have been developed over the years, and we'll examine each of them.

Before we do, we should look at one method which is sometimes thought to be a technique of epilation - permanent hair removal - but which, says Ann Gallant, "is not currently considered by the electrology profession to give the proven results neccessary to class it as a method of permanent hair removal." This is the tweezer method (not to be confused with plucking, where no electrical power is used). It's known as "Depilex", which suggests that it manufacturers, recognise it as a method of temporary hair removal. Because of superficial similarity between this equipment and other types intended for true electrolysis, there is sometimes confusion about the lasting effects of this method.

It operates by gripping a hair with a special pair of tweezers as it leaves the follicle and passing a strong enough current through to destroy it. The theory is that the current will be carried through the hair to the papilla, which will then be incapable of producing regrowth hair. Ann Gallant, however, believes that the current tends to be dispersed on the surface, via the moisture and oils on the skin, and says, that "permanent results have not yet been achieved" by this method.

None of the specialists I spoke to would recommend it in preference to any of the main techniques of electrolysis, but some felt that, as a method of temporary hair removal, it might be as effective as shaving or depilatory creams, although probably not as effective as waxing.

There was also the fear that, in the hands of an experienced operator, it could result in some burning of the skin.

At the moment there are three systems of permanent hair removal, by electrolysis, in use at the moment in beauty salons in Britain. In all of them a very fine needle is inserted into the follicle and electrical power is used to disrupt the bulb and the papilla.

The skill required of the practitioner is remarkable. Few untrained eyes, I suspect, would be able to identify a follicle opening, even using a magnifying lamp. Electrologists locate the opening, identify the direction in which the hair is growing, insert the needle and judge precisely how deep it needs to go before applying the electrical power. They then remove the hair.

They can work at speed; Rosemary reckoned to work normally at 100 hairs in fifteen minutes (or one hair every nine seconds!) but has achieved twice that number. "The main thing," says Julie,"is the depth, because you can go too far and go straight through and cause a blood spot; and obviously won't get an effective treatment. And then you have to judge how much current to use, because the stronger the hair is, the higher the current you may need."

It is worth at noting this point that there are "home electrolysis kits" which are offered for sale, usually through mail order, for about thirty pounds. The instructions for the one I bought come on a sheet no bigger than an A4 page. These are the full instructions given for inserting the needle (or stylet tip) into the follicle. "Note the angle of hair growth and gently insert stylet tip along underside of hair and into the follicle using a downwards pressure (sideward will bend the tip). In the beginning it may take a few tries to locate the follicle so tip enters easily, but you will become proficient sooner than you think. The stylet tip floats on a spring cushion, thus cannot pierce or break the skin; it can only locate and slide into the follicle. Good lighting is imperative and a magnifying mirror is helpful."

Constrast with the training Julie insists her students should have "We give them them about 300 hours practice, and a lot of it is spent initially on each other, using a needle without current."Marian says of home electrolysis kits "Diabolical! There's a real danger of scarring. Correct probing is absolutely crucial. You need plenty of training."

The warning about scarring stems from the fact that, if you release the current before the needle tip has reached the bulb and the papilla, you may well burn the upper layer of the skin or the surface itself. If you are considering whether it is worth buying a home kit, consider how you would cope with hair you cannot see very easily and, if you are right handed, how effective your left hand would be in treating your right arm...

Back, though, to the three main methods of permanent hair removal. For simplicity, I am calling all three of them "electrolysis," although technically only one should actually carry that label.

The oldest is the galvanic method. It uses a discharge of electricity to produce a chemical reaction at the base of the bulb; the sodium hydrochloride which is formed is an alkali which destroys both the attachment of the hair to its follicle and the ability of the follicle to develop regrowth.

Galvanic electrolysis is slower than the diathermic method, but it probably results in less regrowth and, therefore, not so much need to return to treat the same follicle again. Diathermic electroysis uses a short wave diathermic current which destroys the hair root through heat. It takes far less time for each hair, but because the needle has to be positioned with far greater accuracy, it is not so immediately effective as the galvanic method. Far more hairs can be treated in any one session and that will result in a sense of far greater progress; but, in fact, it is far less likely that any one insertion will result in permanent destruction of the hair. It may take a number of treatments before that has taken place.

Recently a new system has been introduced. Called "The Blend", it combines both galvanic and diathermic methods, and it is claimed to have the permanence of one technique and the speed of the other. Those beauty therapists who have used The Blend seem very enthusiastic, although several have said that they will keep their previous system, as it may still be more appropiriate for some clients.

Although much more effective than any other methods available at the moment, none of the three techniques is without its problems, no matter how skilled the operator, as many beauty therapists have told me. The galvanic system may result in some of the alkali it produces being left at the base of the follicle, for instance.

However, there are side effects. Electroysis is painful, although much will depend on your own pain threshold. But nobody I have spoken to is in any doubt that there is a possibility of a great deal of pain involved. Not, as Julie explains, "from the insertion of the needle, because you're not actually breaking through skin or anything else.", but the electrical power produces heat and that causes a sensation like "a short jab, the pain of which depends on the sensitivity of the area you are working on."

As one authoritative American study, "Electroysis, Thermolysis and the Blend," puts it; "The goal of the electrologists is to work as closely to the pain threshold as possible, employing the maximum amount of current that the client can comfortable take. The higher a client's threshold level, the greater the intensity of current we can use, thereby shortening the length of time needed to treat any follicle."

A threshold level is defined as "the degree of pain sensation beyond which the intensity of pain becomes consciously uncomfortable or intolerable," and it varies from person to person, from day to day and from body area to area.

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