Make Up Tips
Your eyes are the most exciting and expressive feature you have. They project your mood, emotion and personality, and so emphasising them with make-up is extremely important.
Bear in mind, as you look at yourself in the mirror, that your eye is divided into three parts:
The eyelid The center, or depth area The brow bone
The classical ideal eye would be proportioned in the following way: one-third from the base of the lashes to the crease line, and two-thirds from the crease line to the eyebrow. You can achieve this proportion with well judged make-up.
I prefer pressed-powder shadows. They are made in many shades and have either pearl or matt finishes. A pearl finish creates a light-reflective, brighter effect – it does however have a tendency to accentuate any flaws and emphasise eyelid creases.
Originally, eye shadow was devised to bring out eye colour, but it is now used in more sophisticated ways to highlight, contour and shape the eyes. Eye shadow can emphasise eye colour; it can contrast or co-ordinate with fashion, or it may simply create a different and dramatic look.
One thing I don’t advocate is the use of colour charts. Your goal is to choose an eye shadow that will emphasise or bring out your eyes – this doesn’t simply mean choosing a shade that matches your eye colour. Today, make-up has become much more sophisticated and the newer earthy, subtle tones are more exciting regardless of your eye colour.
My preference for contouring eyes is the use of softer eye colours, which are easy to apply. The most effective are charcoal, taupe, tawny browns, and plum or wine colours.
In striving for drama and sophistication in applying make-up to enhance your most important feature – your eyes – I prefer using two or three shades of eyeshadow. For example, a lighter to a darker plum shade, or a beige and a tawny brown.
The colours should be similar, but slightly different in terms of colour pigment and degree of light and dark. You can always use another colour as an accent shade; for example, lets say you applied charcoal contour shadow then you can choose mauge or amethyst, apricot or yellow ochre for an extra touch of excitement. Highlight shades are most effective when they are lighter than your eyeshadow. Ivory, a pearlised peach, pink or beige on the brow bone is always interesting yet subtle.
The following steps will give you a classically contoured eye:
1. You will obtain the best effect by choosing shades that blend from one to the other without leaving a demarcation line. Start with the lighter colour at the base of the lashes and bring it up to the depth area, extending it away from the inner corner of the eye and around the outer corner.
Use an applicator or professional brush set for best results. Deftly apply the shadow just under the lower, outer edge of the lid. The deeper colour is then applied from the depth area up onto the brow bone, where it should fade away. I like shades of amethyst, burgundies, tawny brown colours and the smoky shades.
2. Apply highlighter or colour accent to the inner half of the eyelid.
3. The last step is the application of highlighter to the brow bone. Blend shades together so that no demarcation lines spoil the effect.
Outline Your Eyes!
An eye pencil is best for outlining your eyes. Your liner should be brown, black, charcoal or navy, so that it looks like part of the eye and gives your lashes a thicker appearance. Black is most effective for a dramatic look (and the one I use), while the lighter shades are softer and more natural.
For the top lid: Place you finger on the brow bone and gently lift and stretch the lid so that it’s taut. Run a series of short but connected strokes of liner at the lash base from the inner to the outer corner of the eye area. Smudge the liner outward and downward into the lashes with a cotton bud.
For further emphasis: Lift the eyelid and stroke on the liner along the inner rim of the lid underneath your upper lashes. Do not use liner under the lid if you wear contact lenses.
Use the pencil now to draw a line just below the bottom lashes. The liner should start very thin at the inside of the eye and steadily thicken as you reach the outside. If you don’t wear contact lenses then colour the inside lid as well. Eyelashes
The eyelash curler is a great help in creating an open-eyed look and adding the appearance of length to the lashes. It is a must when you have very straight lashes or when they droop down at the outer corners.
First tilt your head slightly back and look straight ahead into the mirror (a magnifying mirror is best). Now place the lash curler close to the base of the top lashes and carefully clamp it closed for about thirty seconds. This should give a nice curl to the lashes. If you have not achieved the desired effect, go through the procedure once more.
Curling the lashes should always be done before the mascara is applied. False Lashes
False lashes are not usually necessary, especially for daytime make-up, but they can add beauty to the eye not graced with long lashes and add glamour to an otherwise plain eye. Choose only very fine lashes, not too long, and they should look absolutely natural.
Only use the wand type. Black is best for brunettes, and brown for blondes and redheads. Lightly apply to to bottom lashes. When using mascara on upper lashes, look up and lightly apply it to the undersurface of your lashes – then look downwards and layer the top surface.
Repeat this procedure several times until you achieve the desired thickness.
The following tips will help you care for and maintain those well-groomed eyebrows:
Generally ‘underplay’ the eyebrows. Subtlety works best. Follow the natural shape of the brow. Never apply colour in heavy, solid lines. Rather, use light, fine, feathery strokes to simulate the natural eyebrow hairs. Eyebrows should always be a few shades lighter than your hair colour – never darker! When they are darker they look artificial and have a tendency to distract attention from the beauty of your eyes. Never shave your eyebrows – they will only grow back stronger and more coarse. Use a dipilatory cream instead. If your brows are a bit flaky or scaly, lubricate them at night with a little vaseline or castor oil.
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